Europe's Last True Wilderness

While most of Europe's wild places exist in carefully managed fragments between farmland and motorways, Iceland's interior highlands — known as the Hálendið — sprawl across thousands of square kilometres of volcanic desert, glaciated peaks, boiling hot springs, and jet-black lava fields. There are no permanent settlements. In winter, the roads close entirely. Even in summer, access requires a high-clearance 4WD or serious multi-day trekking stamina. This is the real thing.

The Two Classic Highland Routes

Landmannalaugar to Þórsmörk: The Laugavegur Trail

Consistently rated one of the most beautiful long-distance treks in the world, the Laugavegur (roughly 55 km, typically 4 days) crosses a landscape that looks like it belongs on another planet. Rhyolite mountains painted in green, yellow, and burgundy give way to black obsidian lava flows, steaming geothermal fields, and snowfields that persist through summer. The trail ends at the glacially carved green valley of Þórsmörk — a fitting finale.

Key facts:

  • Start: Landmannalaugar (accessible by highland bus mid-June to mid-September)
  • End: Þórsmörk (bus connection back to Reykjavik)
  • Huts: Fjallabak Nature Reserve huts managed by Ferðafélag Íslands (FÍ) — book months ahead
  • River crossings: Several unbridged river fords are required. Cold, fast, and knee-deep in places — hiking poles and unbuckled pack straps are essential

Fimmvörðuháls: The High Pass Extension

From Þórsmörk, many trekkers continue over the Fimmvörðuháls Pass (25 km, 1–2 days) to Skógar, passing between the Eyjafjallajökull and Mýrdalsjökull glaciers and through the lava field created by the 2010 Eyjafjallajökull eruption. The trail descends via Skógafoss, one of Iceland's most iconic waterfalls. Combined with the Laugavegur, this creates a 5–6 day classic highland traverse.

When to Go

The highland season is short and non-negotiable:

  • Late June – early September: Highland roads open, huts operational, river levels manageable
  • Before mid-June or after mid-September: Snowfields on passes, high river levels, huts closed. Experienced winter mountaineers only.

Even in peak season, expect rapid weather changes. Snow can fall in July. Pack for all conditions regardless of the forecast.

The Highlands Beyond the Laugavegur

If you're willing to venture off the main circuit, the highlands reward with extraordinary solitude:

  • Askja Caldera: A remote volcanic caldera in the north of the highlands, accessible by 4WD or guided jeep tour. The milky-blue geothermal lake Viti sits inside a crater within a crater — other-worldly.
  • Kerlingarfjöll: A geothermal mountain range in the centre of the highlands with hiking trails winding through steaming vents, orange and yellow mineral deposits, and snowcapped peaks.
  • Kjölur Route: One of the two highland roads (F35), this route through the centre of Iceland between the Langjökull and Hofsjökull glaciers can be hiked over several days with a support vehicle arrangement.

Practical Essentials

Getting to the Highlands

Most highland areas are accessible only by F-roads — mountain roads that require a 4WD vehicle. Driving a regular hire car on F-roads is illegal and voids your insurance. Alternatively, the highland bus system (Strætó and Reykjavik Excursions operate seasonal services) connects Reykjavik to the main trailheads.

Weather Preparation

Iceland's highland weather is genuinely unpredictable. Essential kit includes a 3-layer waterproof system, synthetic or wool base layers (not cotton), gaiters for river crossings and snowfields, and sturdy waterproof boots. Check vedur.is (the Icelandic Meteorological Office) for forecasts — their highland-specific forecasts are reliable and detailed.

Leave No Trace

Iceland's volcanic soils are extremely fragile and recover from damage very slowly. Stay on marked paths, use designated camping areas only, and pack out everything you pack in. The highlands have remained pristine for so long precisely because so few people reach them — let's keep it that way.